Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Reef Tank Temperature - Discussion


I am currently running my 125 gallon reef tank at temperature range  between 27.8 - 29.4 degrees centigrade. Is this a bit too hot?

Yes "a bit" is about right. Ideally you want to be around 80 degrees and your temps are 82 -85.85 degrees is about maximum before the animals get stressed
I've tried injecting copious amounts of air into the dry column & have  also installed a ventilating fan with its louvers directing on the water  surface of my sump. In addition, lots of air is also forced on the surface of the aquarium. With all these, I only manage to bring the temp as above.
Humm I wouldn't want to see it without the fans!
I've had a chiller before, but got busted a few times also the noise is irritating. I desperately need some advice on how to keep reef tanks cooler or maybe it will be better if you can suggest on some corals that can  thrive in this temperature.
You don't say
  • how long has it been like this what took place to notice the increased temp
  • how old is the tank
  • how does the tank look (creatures)
  • is this due to seasonal temp swings?
  • where in the world you live (ambient temp)
  • what the room temp is?
  • type of lighting MH ??
  • enclosed hood?
  • if your tank is lit with MH how many watts?
  • and do your creatures need such high light/watage
I would recommend to look into
  • the light/wattage is it needed?
  • use a room air conditioner if the ambient temp is constantly 80 deg or higher.
  • air conditioners work very well
  • improve your fan situation make sure the hood is adequately ventilated
  • 85 deg is max 80 is desired
Yes, you were right about me not providing you enough info on my tank. Anyway, I live in a tropical 'island' (is now a city/country) near the tip of west Malaysia. Pretty high temps here, around 25 - 35 degrees centigrade all year round. I think can't do anything much to lower my reef tank. Maybe, be a bit selective on inverts. Anyway, I find that reef temps in the sea are around 27 - 29 degrees ya know, but I do not see the point of why inverts in our tanks have to be kept at lower temps.
Actually the best advise is common sense. How do the creatures look? That is the BEST indication regardless of what you read or hear. Animals, fish inverts, coral can adapt to a fairly wide range of conditions. The real problem with high temperature is the metabolism of the creature is increased. So it eats more, produces more waste and IMO accelerates its life span. Although if its a hardy animal it will also reproduce more. I really don't like chillers as they are expensive and expensive to run. If you could get a room air conditioner that would definitely bring down the tank temp as well as keeping you cool ;-) 

That's my preference. Actually your tank temps are not that much different the your observations of the sea in your area 



Simplified Reefkeeping

New Tank Set-Up...Discussion


1. YOU MENTIONED USING THE MAGNUM WITH NO MEDIUM.  I'M ASSUMING YOU MEAN
NO CHARCOAL -- USING THE FILTER ONLY AS A FILTER FOR BIG CHUNKS AND WATER
 MOVEMENT.  DO YOU NEVER USE CHARCOAL TO CLEAN UP THE WATER?
No I mean *no media* at all. The live rock does all the biological filtering so you don't need a secondary filter! In fact a separate filter will INCREASE your nitrate levels... This is all in  my book.

 2. I'VE ORDERED MY SECOND ICE CAP -- PLUS 4 URL 110W BULBS.  2 ACTINIC WHITE AND 2 ACTINIC 03.  IS THERE SOMEWHERE TO GET MORE INFO ON THESE BULBS.  I'VE READ SOMETHING SOMEWHERE BUT CAN'T FIND IT AND REMEMBER ONLY ENOUGH TO KNOW THERE IS MORE TO THEM THAT I SHOULD KNOW.
That sounds great. Ice cap and URI are a great combination. The most important thing to know is to replace the bulbs in about 6 to 8 months. Other than that its just technicalities that are in my opinion ..un important. For some more info look on my links page for online dealers they should have more info
 
 3.  CHEMICALS.  KALKWASSER -- I NOTE THAT KENT HAS A POWDER ,  I ASSUME THAT I'LL JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PACKAGE.  ANYTHING ELSE I WOULD FIND HELPFUL?

Yes that's good I would follow the instructions in my book though as they are much more detailed. Also an excellent alternative to the high price kalkwasser is simply balls pickle lime. same thing.. calcium hydroxide price difference is about $1.49 for balls... $11.99 for kalkwasser. You will use allot of this
stuff so I would buy a case of balls

LUGOLS IODINE.  I'VE FOUND NOTHING THAT FITS THIS DESCRIPTION -- COULD  YOU GIVE ME A BRAND NAME, OR SOME MORE INFORMATION.
Go to  a pharmacy (not a chain, but a small mom & pop) and ask for lugols solution about 12 a pint will last a life time...some states you need a prescription just tell them what your using it for... a trace element for a reef tank

ESV STRONTIUM -- I'VE FOUND KENT HAS A STRONTIUM, BUT NOTHING ABOUT ESV --
ESV is a brand name of a very good company that produces chemicals for the tank. THey tell you on the label what the concentration is the strontium is about 12 a pint also and will last at least a year see my links for a online dealer

WHAT SHOULD THIS NOVICE KNOW THAT TO OTHERS IS COMMON KNOWLEDGE?
Off the top of my head I would keep it as simple as possible... you don't have to get all caught up as if it were surgery or something... its very easy. And the tank ends up taking care of its self.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Home Made Food Recipe For The Reef Aquarium


I noticed you asking about what to feed your anemones... I would highly advise this home made food It is a recipe from Dr. Sanjay J.... and he is allowing me to include it in my new vers below is a rough draft  of the text give it a try Its great stuff. I did some feeding with frozen food but this has it hands down!

Homemade food recipe. One of the best food sources for your tank can be home made and when you try this I doubt if you will go back to any other type of food. The fish and corals absolutely love this. It is very inexpensive to make and for about $10 or so you can make at least a six months supply. Here is how. This recipe comes from Dr. Sanjay Joshi of  and is passed on with his permission.
  • Go to a oriental food store and buy some nori (seaweed in sheets) unseasoned.
  • From your favorite food store buy 1/4 lb. of fresh  squid, clams, mussels, fish filleted, scallops, shrimp.
  • Put the seafood in a blender and puree adding water to get a consistency of thick soup.
  • Then take 2 or 3 sheets of nori cut into one inch strips and add to the blender, add more water to maintain the thick soup consistency.
  • Then simply put about 3 tablespoons into a small sandwich bag, repeat until you use all the mix, double bag the excesses and freeze. when you want to feed break off one third of the bag defrost slightly then add it to the tank.
 I like to use a piece of plastic gutter guard shaped into a small cup, held together with cable ties. This
makes a nice dispenser just add the mix to the holder and swish. The stuff is great.. now why didn't I
think of that? Also nori is a good food for herbivores by itself and if you want to get fancy add a product called selcon. A vitamin mix for fish.



Simplified Reefkeeping

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Evaporation And Adding Kalkwasser - Discussion



 Lastly, I am starting for the first time to add kalkwasser. My tank  does not evaporate much (maybe 1 gallon week).

That's not too good. Most believe in high evap to maintain calcium via kalk. I evap a minimum or 15 gal per wk in my 200 now a 255 with refugium. You should have fans in your hood which will increase evap and some go as far as placing fans (sometimes very large fans) over the sump. The more air movement= evap = more frequent or larger doses of kalk. I would say a 55 should do about 5 gal per week and added in 2  2.5 gal increments. You add the kalk in the am when the pH is lowest. Mix in the pm let settle then dose in am

So I will be adding this probably once a week. What is the rule of thumb for adding how much in a period of time? Is it one drop per second?

Depends the size of the drop,  using an airline tube the drops are large, an IV bag they are small. I would recommend airline with a reliable clamp and dose the 2.5 gal in a 24 hr period you will be fine. The MAIN thing is to make the adding water to the container/mixing/dosing as EASY as possible so it is
not a dreaded inconvenience. That's the main trick! I use a 5 gal bucket with a pump at the bottom and a water supply right in the bucket. Fill... add kalk... turn on powerhead...mix for 4 hours or so... unplug powerhead... let settle for about an hour... then drip in. I drip 5 gal in about an hour through airline w/o clamp.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Removing Bio-balls - Discussion


You also mentioned to remove the bio-ball media that is in the rear  chamber of my 50 gallon SYS-II. This way my nitrates will decreasedramatically. By doing this what about the bioload in the tank. Do I have to worry about stress to the tank or will my live rock take care of this for me. I am going to add a few more lbs of rock. When I remove the media should I do it all at once or in increments.

You may want to get some more live rock, as I said 1.5 to 1.75 lb per gal of rock or sand for complete
 denitrification. One downside to adding a substantial amount of rock will be a significant cycle that *will* stress the fish.. high ammonia high nitrite temporarily 2 weeks or so. As far as removing the media,
when your confident that you have enough rock and sand per gal, start removing something like 25% per week, that will make a seamless transition of your biological bacteria. 


Simplified Reefkeeping

Problem Algae Questions and Answers


Ive read your post about problem algae. When was the last time you replaced your light bulbs? That sometimes can contribute to algae (shifted  spectrum) Also, how old is the spectrapure inner resin? 
You seem to have everything in order but do not mention the age of the above. Also I would recommend (personally) to use all kalk only...for make up water It seems strange to me that the snails are dying. IME some snails can be fairly delicate however over a reasonably short period of time 1 year +  they should begin to reproduce in your tank. Then you end up with a much hardier snail. Typically the
asteras reproduce fairly easily, at least mine do.
  • using non purified tap water. are you using ro or di water? You should.
  • Old light bulbs. I remember you had just got a new light setup.. are the lamps new?
  • overfeeding I would only feed every 3 days or so
  • in adequate skimming what kind of skimmer are you using? a backpak is probably good for a 30.
  • how old is the resin in the ro/di?  you know that gets expended.. maybe have to replace it
  • sounds like the algae is getting a food source from somewhere... I have to think its the source water.
If you have high nitrates ... you probably have some kind of media?? in a filter? that produces nitrate. Usually the amount of liverock you have will easily de-nitrify the nitrate 1 lb to 1.75 lb per gal does it, 
you say you have 110 watts from what I remember you purchased a much more powerful setup than that. 
Look into the source water



 My skimmer is the backpak. I have the blue bio material in the backpak and wash the sponge on the front out three times a week.  Do I need to remove all of the bio material  at once??
Ok it will probably take about a week for you to see noticeable drop in nitrate, but you should definitely see much lower numbers in that time span. You also *may* see an increase of ammonia (don't worry about it) as the bacteria relocate to your rock & sand. Again, without knowing your tank... I would suspect the water, silicates usually. Maybe time for a redo of the internals of the water purification system?


 I have been changing water one week then the next.  Its a 30 gal with 30 lbs live rock 2 inches of crushed coral substrate bak pak filter skimmer and 110 watt of light. I have huge bushes of hair algae and my nitrates are 70 or so.  I have been considering a CPR wet dry filter would this help my problem or make it worse???  Would I need a sump box??  Please help real frustrated...
The most common causes for algae are
A wet dry will produce nitrate so I would definitely not use it 

I would, I bet that is where the nitrate is coming from. Remove it and then test the nitrate in a week or so. I bet you have zero

I plan to test Nitrate again tonight the tank looks better overall tonight  than before I did this get rid of algae stuff. 


Simplified Reefkeeping

Bristleworms Questions and Answers

Bristleworms



 I will be adding a few more lbs. of live rock this weekend and was hoping you could tell me of any way to eliminate those unwanted guests"BRISTLE WORMS" before I add the rock to my display tank. I have heard of a few of ways to do this. One way of course is the trusty old Arrow Crab (I have already in tank), but I am hoping to resolve this before the live rock goes into my display tank. Two other methods I have briefly heard about are: 1) Dip the live rock in fresh
DI/RO water and this will force them out; or 2) Dip the rock in some  carbonated water which the carbon dioxide gas will force them out. Don't know of anybody that has tried these methods yet?
One concern is if these methods will work, what problems might they cause if the live rock is already "CURED". I guess it could kill coraline algae's or anything else which is beneficial for the rock? 

Ok those are bristle worms and a natural occurrence in live rock. They used to be considered bad for the tank as they were thought to eat coral. The new thinking is that they are good and serve a purpose stirring the sand and processing detritus. Im fairly sure these are what you have. They are a pinkish flesh color with whitish fury looking legs those are bristle worms, they can get large!! I have personally seen them 12 inches in length needless to say I got rid of it. Smaller ones do a good service to the tank. Other similar looking worms but different colors deep solid red are fireworms and will give you a very bad sting. These are more unusual to have and I would get rid of them if I had one.
The opinion of bristle worms is changing... especially if you have sand. They are detrivores and do a very good job churning the sand. A few years ago, they were thought to eat corals etc. and its a possibility that they might, but if you use sand it is considered good to have bristle worms.


Do they reproduce in the tank?
yes the reproduce very easily... one other suggestion is to look at the tank after the lights have been off for about 2 hours. Use a flashlight and try not to make vibrations on the floor when you walk. You should see creatures that you do not see during the day.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Do your astrae snails reproduce in your tank ?

To be honest I'm not sure exactly what they are. I haven't purchased ANY livestock in about 3 years what I remember is some were astera and some turbo.

Turbo being the larger non coned shaped. I have hummm... hundreds of what seem to be baby snails They are oval about 3/8" long 1/4" wide/flat on the bottom/about 1/8" tall/grayish white in color with a few dark bands going the shorter distance the 1/4 " width/some are bright purple.

They really only come out when the lights are off and have a somewhat hard shell I have observed some of them growing to a full snail (cone type) algae eater

Simplified Reefkeeping

About keeping a "Wide variety of corals" in one reef aquarium

A "wide variety of corals" will have a equally wide variety of demands.

As you know I am not a proponent of extreme wattage, which has been one of the reasons for doing my survey Id suggest to have a look at that. Anyway, again I would recommend easier to keep corals and usually...the higher the light requirements the more difficult to keep.

 For example a HL SPS tank will consume a of allot of calcium, so a calcium reactor may be in order and depending on your physical location the heat from the lamps and pumps usually transfer to the water so If your in this league.. a chiller may also be called for. Keep in mind a wide variety can really be *a wide variety* but the long term costs of operation is extremely  costly believe me!

Simplified Reefkeeping

Limited room for a sump box in the reef tank.


If you don't have that much room for my 55 gallon tank and the natural system doesn't require extra sumps and things.

Out of all the systems the 2 most popular are the Berlin and Jaubert. Quite a few people who do run a Jaubert also use a skimmer and that is called believe a NNR system. I hear a

llot about algae problems associated with plenums over a period of time and It has happened to me. My recommended system is the Berlin and using eggcrate and the spraybar makes it a "Glorified Berlin" It works extremely well and of course I highly recommend it.

It seems to me as a general observation that because these systems never really caught on that there must be a reason for it. *Most* hobbyists are economical and if a less expensive system would work it would be more widely used. I guess that's the basis or your question, I wish I could be more help and in the future (once the dust starts to settle) I may do some experiments with these systems



Simplified Reefkeeping

Mixing Kalkwasser


Kalkwasser should be mixed with ro or di water using a powerhead. In a 5 gal bucket place the powerhead on the bottom of the bucket take a piece of airline or sufficient length to go from the bucket into the sump, and attach a weight to it to hold it 3/4 " above the bottom of the bucket. Fill with water, turn the power head on, add 5 heaping teaspoons of kalk, mix for approximately 4 – 5 hours, unplug the power head, let the mix sit for 4-5 hours, then drip into the sump near the intake of the skimmer.

The best time to add the mix is in the AM this is when the pH is lowest although adding late at night is acceptable as well. A convenient schedule is begin mixing around 7-8 pm end before bed and add first thing in the am

Simplified Reefkeeping

Friday, March 16, 2012

What is your recommended dosage for Lugols solution?

I would *start* with 1 drop every other day.

Test the water to get the reading you desire, and increase if needed. Usually the recommended dosage is 1 drop per 20 gallon every other day or to achieve a test result of 0.06ppm (the contains of NSW). I would recommend to start slow ... as each tank differs as to demand, skimmer removal and maintenance (water changes).

 I belive one of the drawbacks of lugols is that it is so economical that its tempting to add too much.I have been using it for about 6 months now and works well as a supplement, however I believe that frequent water changes with a good salt will almost eliminate the need for adding iodine, unless of course you have corals that have a high demand.


Simplified Reefkeeping

What are you referring to when you say downdraft protein skimmer?

I consider a downdraft protein skimmer one that is fed at the top, water flows downward and the output (for figurative reasons) is at the bottom.
Ok my understanding is 3 kinds of skimmers

  1. A counter current uses small pump and airstones 
  2. A Venturi that uses larger pump and a Venturi valve restrictor and small air intake 
  3. A downdraft or ETS environmental tower scrubber. 


This has a TALL like 5 ft x 2" "tower" filled with bioballs, the water gets pumped into the top of this column under relatively high pressure through a fairly small 5/16 or 3/8 piece of plumbing fitting kind of like a tapered fire hose nozzle. At the top of this 2in x 5ft tower there is a hole about 3/8in that allows air to be "down drafted" into this bioball column The turbulated, air induced, foamed water then crashes into a small rectangular box about 8x8x12 inches the foam then drifts over to a LARGE like 8in acrylic reaction foam collection, accumulation riser, much like a regular protein skimmer. Bubbles burst foam rises, and overflows into a collection area like a regular skimmer.

 This works very well as there is virtually no restriction to a very high flow rate. Mine processes 1200gph for the skimmer and another main pump 1200 gph for the main

Simplified Reefkeeping

I understand the goals of the water treatment equipment, and the function of the live rock filter. I'm planning for a high intensity lighting system so I can keep a wide variety of corals, hence water quality is paramount.

Ok  a "wide variety of corals" will have a equally wide variety of demands. As you know I am not a proponent of extreme wattage, which has been one of the reasons for doing my survey Id suggest to have a look at that.

Anyway, again I would recommend easier to keep corals and usually...the higher the light requirements the more difficult to keep. For example a HL SPS tank will consume a heck of allot of calcium, so a calcium reactor may be in order and depending on your physical location the heat from the lamps and pumps usually transfer to the water so If your in this league.. a chiller may also be called for.

 Keep in mind a wide variety can really be *a wide variety* but the long term costs of operation is damn costly Believe me!!

Simplified Reefkeeping

Thursday, March 15, 2012

You also talk about a skimmer on you reef page. What does that do that my Power Head doesn't? And what is an est. cost of a skimmer?


All a power head does is circulate water. A skimmer or foam fractioner removes organic waste by bombarding the water column with tiny bubbles. Waste in the water sticks to the tiny bubbles rise to the top and burst.
This becomes a buildup of greenish brown organic material that overflows to be removed from the system.Skimmers range from around $100 to $800.

Most hobbyists use a CPR backpack for a tank your size they are around $100 My suggestion to you would be forget the hex tank. If you really want to do  a reef tank buy a 55 gall. Its an affordable tank and will give you a much more functional system and better display. Also it is a standard size so components are much easier to find less expensive and will simply give you  a better system. I strongly recommend to all.... to think well before they begin.

 This hobby is very expensive and starting off wrong will end up costing more money in the long run.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Thoughts on using a 60 hexagonal tank for a reef aquarium.



Tall tanks are not really recommended (at least by me) because there wont be enough room
for positioning the live rock and having the lighting evenly dispersed.

Using a tall tank one usually has to stack rock upon rock which in turn doesn't allow life forms to grow beneath the stack.

Also lighting will be an issue


Simplified Reefkeeping

How do I correct a bad algae problem in my reef tank



Are you using Reverse Osmosis or  Dionized  water? Most significant algae problems are caused
by not using RO or DI water.

 Most hobbyist test kits wont read a
tremendously accurate silicate or phosphate test.

Problem algae is  usually traced to water, over feeding, light bulbs past their life
expectancy, low pH and not using Kalkwasser, insufficient skimming


Simplified Reefkeeping

How to drill a glass reef aquarium?



Your better off having a glass shop do it. a few considerations though..

  • a glass shop wont guarantee that they Don't break it
  • most tanks bottoms are tempered and you/they cant drill that.
  • If you want a drilled bottom you have to order a special non tempered bottom
  • some good LFS (local fish stores) can drill the tank


Out of 10+ holes I have had drilled they (glass shops) never broke a tank on me and charge$10 - $15 per hole
most important is to bring the fittings with you when you do have it drilled


Simplified Reefkeeping

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Are there any restrictions on the livestock I can put in my reef tank?


I recommend that the largest population of livestock in the reef tank be shrimp, starfish, clams, urchins, snails, and harmless crabs. Next, in a lesser amount, would be the corals; they produce a minimum amount of waste, and in fact some of them will process waste. Finally, fish should be added, in the smallest numbers. They are the largest consumers of food, and therefore produce the most waste. Having only a few fish will mean that you will be putting in less commercial food. This reduces the risk of food going uneaten and accumulating in the prefilter, possibly becoming food for algae and/or leading to diminished water quality.

Your fish should be reef-compatible only; that is, they should eat algae but not coral. As I have mentioned in other areas of this book, nearly all of the creatures we put into our tank should be able to consume their fair share of naturally-occurring algae. The selection of livestock is important for algae management.

I recommend that nearly all of the livestock in your reef tank be algae consumers—fish especially. To be allowed into your reef, just about every creature should consume its fair share of algae. This way, not only are the tank inhabitants interesting and beautiful, but they will serve an important function! They will manage the unavoidable, naturally-occurring algae that would be a major inconvenience for you (the reef keeper) to remove manually. Let the fish, snails, crabs, and urchins remove it for you, naturally!
  1. Mat for live rock frame (eggcrate) $ 15
  2. Sand aragonite: 1 10-lb. bag 10
  3. Live rock: 1.5 lbs. per gallon, x 55 gallons = 83 lbs. @ $10 $830
  4. Turbo snails (herbivores): 10 @ $5 $50
  5. Coral banded shrimp: 1 $15
  6. Cleaner shrimp: 4 @ $15 $60
  7. Serpent starfish (scavengers): 2 @ $12 $24
  8. *** Brittle starfish (scavengers): 2 @ $12 $24
  9. *** Hardy corals: 4 @ $45 $180
  10. Tridachna clam: 1 $50
  11. Yellow tang, small: 1 $35
  12. Hippo tang, small: 1 $35
  13. Sailfin tang, small: 1 $35
  14. *** Basselette: 1 $35
  15. *** Goby: (your choice of type): 1 $35
  16. *** Misc. invertebrate (your choice): 1 $35
    TOTAL $1,468
    ***To keep costs down you may use less livestock on the items marked.



Simplified Reefkeeping

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

How to deal with problem algae in the reef tank


You should not have a problem with algae if you have followed these recommendations:
  • Purify your tap water with a triple carbon prefilter and reverse osmosis or deionizer system;
  • Use Kalkwasser regularly to keep the pH between 8.2 and 8.4;
  • Do water changes every 2 to 3 weeks;
  • With water changes, vacuum off as much as possible of the debris in the rock crevices;
  • Change your prefilter pad every week;
  • Have the lighting on for no more than 9 hours a day, using the wattage recommended
  • Do not use unnecessary additives
  • Employ herbivorous livestock (turbo snails, small hermit crabs, hard star fish, and algae-eating fish such as yellow tangs, blennies, angels, etc.).
By following the recommendations here, you should be able to manage the micro-algae in your tank. These procedures will ensure that your reef will not be overtaken by green, brown, or red algae that would cover desirable livestock and organisms (such as the hard pink coralline algae) that depend on water flow and light.

I cannot overemphasize the importance of following all the previous recommendations, as they will ensure that the undesirable algae do not have the conditions they need to survive, and undesirable algae are the scourge of reef keeping. Follow the suggested procedures, and the algae should be manageable!

Micro-algae will grow!

The growth of micro-algae is a natural occurrence and will happen in most healthy tanks. It is only when the algae become unmanageable that we have a problem. Managing the growth of micro-algae means (1) limiting the conditions they need to thrive, (2) having livestock that will eat most of the algae, and (3) removing the remainder by hand with magnets, blade scrapers, and brushes.
In my tanks, brown and some green algae form on the glass on a regular basis. They do not thrive for long in other areas; they are only a problem on the glass and overflow pipes.
The glass is easily cleaned with an algae glass-cleaning magnet. When buying such a magnet, purchase the largest one you can find. Usually the larger the size, the stronger the magnet and the better the cleaning capabilities (pull) it will have. The magnet does a nice job for weekly or twice-weekly cleaning. Little bright green patches will eventually form. These should be scraped off with a razor blade. You should only have to “blade” the glass about once a month at the most.

WHY REEF STORES DO NOT HAVE AN ALGAE PROBLEM
Keep in mind that algae will grow and will have to be removed by hand on a regular basis. Do not be deceived when you go into your favorite reef store and observe that their tanks have no visible algae. You may think, “My tank has algae, why doesn’t his?” The fact is that every morning someone cleans the glass and maintains the tanks so they will look absolutely pristine. This gives the impression that the people in the store know something about water quality that you don’t. In fact, all they are doing is daily maintenance, in addition to the procedures listed above.
Then of course, the remaining algae will be removed by hand, particularly from the glass and overflow pipes. By using a strong magnet or a razor blade for the glass, and a bottle brush for the overflow, it is not a problem to remove undesirable algae.
It is important to remember that we want to remove the algae, not just dislodge it. When using the magnet, after a few swipes you will feel the scrubber part of the magnet cleaner getting full of algae. Take this to the sink and rinse it off. Resume cleaning and repeat the rinsing process as often as needed. Rinse the scrubber when you are done. When using the bottle brush, swirl it to trap the algae in the bristles, and rinse it out in the sink.
A strong algae magnet and bottle brush are useful tools. Some algae, of course, will get away from you. This cannot be avoided. Remove as much as you can, within reason. Algae that are dislodged and left in the tank will either reattach elsewhere, decompose into food for other algae, or get trapped in the prefilter.

Summary of algae management:
If you follow the suggestions I have given, it can be done easily. Algae accumulation can be a serious threat to the enclosed reef system. Left unmanaged, it can become a problem that would test anyone’s patience and sanity; it is not something you want to battle with! However, if you select your livestock carefully and follow the other recommendations I have discussed, the naturally-occurring algae in your tank will be a good food source for the livestock, and what they don’t eat can be managed with regular maintenance.


Simplified Reefkeeping

How to understand and use Kalkwasser


EVAPORATION MAKE-UP WATER & KALKWASSER
Because the tank is exposed to air, and strong pumps are circulating the water throughout the filtering system (overflow pipes, drip plate, prefilter, and protein skimmer), you will get a significant amount of evaporation. In fact, the better your skimmer and the stronger your water pump (both desirable features), the more evaporation you will get. You will need to replace the evaporated water regularly. An important reminder for the new hobbyist is that the water evaporates, not the salt. Do not add salt mix with the make-up water. The result will be a higher salinity than is desirable.


Adding make-up water provides a good opportunity to replenish much-needed calcium, which gets depleted rapidly in an enclosed reef system. This vital element is used by virtually all living creatures. Some of it also gets removed by protein skimming. In my opinion the best calcium additive is “Kalkwasser,” which is calcium hydroxide. It is added on a regular basis by mixing it with the purified water being added to compensate for evaporation. These regular additions of calcium hydroxide also keep the pH elevated to the desired 8.2 to 8.4 level.


Kalkwasser is a German word. Literally, it means “lime water.” Kalkwasser is a trade name for calcium hydroxide. The terms “Kalkwasser,” “limewater,” and “calcium hydroxide” all mean the same thing in this hobby.


The water you use to replace what has evaporated will be called “make-up water.” It is extremely important to use purified tap water mixed with calcium hydroxide (a.k.a. Kalkwasser, a.k.a. limewater) for the make-up water! Do not, I repeat, do not, use regular tap water or anything else for make-up water! This is asking for trouble.


As I have stated from the beginning, nothing will ensure your success more than the quality of your water. Once you have made the investment of a water purifying system and have started the reef with purified tap water, the reef will be accustomed to that quality of water. It would be extremely foolish to try to cut corners here. This is the last place to skimp. In fact, it would be inviting disaster by possibly introducing impurities (metals, silicates, phosphates, etc.) that are harmful and troublesome (hard to remove) into the pristine environment that we have tried so hard to create.


When to add make-up water:
Add the Kalkwasser within a day after you mix it; it gradually loses effectiveness after it is mixed Watch the water in the sump! This is where you will see the change in water level. Once you have established the “working water level” in the sump, mark it on the side of the sump box, with magic marker. This will give a quick visual reference as to the height of water that is normally in the system. As evaporation occurs, watch this mark. When the level goes down by 3 to 5 gallons, or gets close to the top of the outlet for the pump, you need to add make-up water. Mix the water no more than one day before you add it to the tank; it starts to lose effectiveness right after it has been mixed. It will have the highest concentration of available calcium just after the sediment settles out of the solution.
On a smaller tank (even a 55-gallon), 5 gallons of high-powered make-up water must be used with caution! Kalkwasser has an extremely high pH. Pay close attention to the drip/dosing flow of water, to be certain that it is administered very slowly. For a 55-gallon tank, you should take a 48-hour period to administer 5 gallons of make-up water. Make sure you test-run your drip method, to be sure that it introduces the desired amount of make-up water over the correct period of time. Adding Kalkwasser too fast will cause pH shock, which can be fatal or, at the least, unnecessarily stressful to the livestock. Take the recommended precautions and do not let this happen!

On larger tanks, 125 gallons and up, 5 gallons of make-up water will not have as much of an effect as it will in smaller tanks. For a 125-gallon tank, the Kalkwasser can be added at the rate of approximately 5 gallons in 8 to 12 hours. In a 200-gallon or larger tank, the 5 gallons can be added without any clamping system, allowing the airline tube to empty the 5-gallon bucket unrestricted. This will take less than 1 hour.


Time of day to add:
Another suggestion is to add the Kalkwasser mix when the tank lights go out, or (ideally) first thing in the morning. While the lights are off, the pH drops, reaching its lowest level the next day just before the lights come back on. If you add the Kalkwasser during this reef “night,” the effect of raising the pH will not be as significant as it would be during lighted hours.

There may be some questions and concerns about adding 5 gallons of Kalkwasser all at once. Yes, some critics may be correct that adding smaller amounts more frequently would be a less risky, less stressful, and more natural approach. However, I have used my method on tanks from 55 to 200 gallons, with no adverse effects, and I have not lost one creature due to pH shock. You do have to be careful on smaller tanks, but once you get familiar with this system, I’m sure you will find it to be very practical: (1) you will add make-up water less frequently, and (2) on larger tanks (125 gallons and up), you can add 5 gallons of make-up water at a time, which is a significant, convenient, easily measurable amount of water to add.
Do not mix with an airstone; this will add carbon dioxide and oxygen, which will reduce the effectiveness of the calcium hydroxide and defeat its purpose!


Benefits of adding Kalkwasser:
You may be interested in why it is so important to add Kalkwasser. Some of the benefits are:
  • It adds calcium that is needed by most of the creatures in the reef.
  • It encourages the growth of pink and purple coralline algae.
  • It keeps the pH elevated. By adding Kalkwasser on a regular basis (make-up water) and doing water changes every 2 to 3 weeks, I have found my pH to be consistently between 8.2 and 8.4. Keeping the pH at this level makes it less likely that micro-algae will become a problem.
  • The reef just seems to love Kalkwasser.
  • There are many more scientific and chemical reactions that are beneficial. Take my word for it: adding Kalkwasser on a regular basis is one of the most beneficial procedures for maintaining a healthy reef and desirable water chemistry.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

What is a protein Skimmer, and how does it work?


The heart of the modern reef external filter system is the protein skimmer. Make sure it is large enough to do the job. You cannot have too much skimming! Buy or make the largest one you can afford. Keep in mind: the larger your skimmer, the larger the skimmer pump will have to be. It should, however, be no larger than the main pump of the system.

I always cut the factory rating in half when planning for my skimmer. A protein skimmer is a clear plastic cylinder, usually 4-6” in diameter and 24-38” tall. Water is directed into the column by a water pump. Inside the column fine air bubbles are introduced and mixed with the water. This is usually done with wooden air blocks placed at the bottom inside the column, and fed with a strong air pump. This type of skimmer is called “counter-current” or “air-driven,” meaning that the water is pumped in at the top of the cylinder, and is directed downward at approximately a 45° angle. This makes the water swirl in the plastic column, while the fine air bubbles from the wooden air blocks rise to the top.

The bubbles drag water with them, rise to the top, and burst. Because there are dissolved proteins and wastes in the water, these too cling to the extremely small air bubbles, which rise and burst in the upper neck of the plastic column. A foam builds up in the upper neck of the plastic column, and overflows into a collection cup to be removed. This is also known as “foam fractioning,” and has been used in water treatment facilities. See Chapter 12 on the design of a protein skimmer.

A Venturi type of skimmer uses a Venturi air valve that is in line with the water being pumped into the skimmer. A Venturi eliminates the need for air pumps and blocks. It runs with a higher flow rate than counter-current systems, and therefore will need a stronger pump: one that is designed to operate under pressure, a “pressure pump.” This type of pump is designed to force water through the Venturi valve (see pump description). The Venturi is considered to be more efficient and overall less expensive to operate than air-driven counter-current skimmers.

The tower type:(Downdraft) There has been a revolutionary new design of skimmer on the market, which is neither Venturi nor counter-current. This new design is called E.T.S., for “Environmental Tower Scrubber.” Water is pumped through a tall, narrow “tower” (approximately 2” wide), filled with plastic media balls. The water is under considerable pressure, and it gets forced down the small neck through the plastic media, with air pulled in from the top of the skimmer creating fine air bubbles. Proteins and waste products cling to the fine air bubbles accumulating in a collection neck, rise, and overflow. This new dimension of skimming is extremely efficient and well worth considering, as the skimmer for your reef.

All skimmers operate on water being pumped in at the top and draining out by gravity at the bottom. The bottom of the skimmer should be above the top of the sump, thereby using gravity to full advantage. Most should have control valves in line before and after the skimmer to insure proper water control and fine tuning of the skimmer.

Also, you will hear talk of “efficient” skimming. This means that the skimmer is adjusted so that the accumulating foam has a relatively stiff consistency. If the bubbles are too close to the top of the neck, they will burst there (at the top), and you will not get the desired thick foam that accumulates until it reaches the top and overflows into the collection cup.

When the tank is first set up, a considerable amount of foam (waste) will be removed. Initially this is from die-off on the rock. The first couple of months are the most crucial from a monitoring standpoint. As time goes on and things balance out, the skimmer will be more predictable. This is good: when the skimmer is properly adjusted to produce a thick foam regularly, this indicates that the waste is being removed and the skimmer is operating correctly. The protein skimmer is the most important external filtering device of the enclosed reef, and will need sufficient monitoring for it to function properly, especially when it is first set up.


SKIMMER PUMPS
Here are some ideas on pumps.

1. Main pump, flow type:
You want to have a turnover of water at least six times the volume of the tank per hour with the main pump. For example, in a 55-gallon tank the turnover should be 55 x 6 = 330 GPH. This would require a main pump in the range of 330 GPH. Also, remember to take the vertical pumping action (head) into account when selecting the main pump. As a general rule, I would also add 20% to the figure as compensation for the head pressure. In this case, 20% of 330 = 66. Adding that to the original 330, we get 396, or about 400 GPH. By adding this 20%, I am assured of the pump’s capability. The main pump should be a flow pump, meaning it is designed to flow the water instead of having to force the water through something like a pressure pump. Also, I am not fond of submersible pumps, unless they are absolutely necessary in a particular situation. So, for a 55-gallon tank, we would use a 400 GPH main pump.

2. Skimmer pump:
For a Venturi skimmer, you will want a pressure pump. This is needed to force the water through the Venturi valve. For a counter-current skimmer, you will want a flow pump, because pressure is not necessary in this design. You will have to be very careful when selecting a pump for a factory-built skimmer. Closely follow the manufacturer’s recommendation of pump size! Skimmers are designed in such a way that the drain fitting is a certain size, and will only drain the water out so fast. I have found that valves are always needed on both sides of the skimmer. This gives you the advantage of being able to fine tune the skimmer, which is definitely necessary. If you make your own skimmer, the drain fitting can be larger than would be found on a factory-built skimmer. By having a large drain fitting controlled by a valve, you can increase the amount of water for the skimmer to process. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can have a small skimmer with a large drain hole and expect to remove waste properly. However, having a sizable drain fitting will give you more control over the rates of drainage and water flow.



Why does the water surface of a reef aquarium need to be skimmed?


In most older reef aquariums water was drawn out of the tank either from the bottom or from approximately halfway up the tank. All advanced reef keepers agree that this is incorrect. The fact is that nitrogen gas, along with other elements, rises to the surface of the water. This can be observed by the existence of a “scum line” at the water level of the tank. It is at this surface waterline that you must draw the water to feed the skimmer. This ensures proper gas exchange between oxygen from the atmosphere and the nutrient-rich water that rises to the surface.

This concept of surface skimming will employ either overflow pipes or a dam-type wall over which surface water flows out of the tank. For filling the tank by using the main pump, my personal preference is to have a spraybar at the bottom rear of the tank. I believe this results in a truer water flow and exchange throughout the tank.

In order to have a true modern reef tank, surface skimming of the water is essential; all water flow out of the tank must be from the surface. This water then enters the protein skimmer, where the bulk waste products get removed. Then the water passes through the prefilter.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Thursday, March 1, 2012

What is the benefit of having a sump box for a reef tank?


A sump box is the best way I can:
  • Supply the skimmers with a consistent volume of water,
  • Incorporate a prefilter,
  • Have a “working amount of water” (the amount it takes to “work” the tank, pumping water into the tank to a desired level, so that water will flow out, and
  • Have the needed buffer, in case the electricity goes out and the tank drains down to the lowest point of the overflow(s).
DESIGN AND FUNCTION OF THE SUMP BOX

It is desirable to have two separate areas in the sump. They are separated with a piece of Plexiglas that is high enough to keep the water separated while the sump is in operation, but not totally separate, so the sump can fill up completely in case of a power outage. We will refer to one side as “dirty” (water from the tank), and the other as “clean” (water from the skimmer and the prefilter).

You need an area where the water can be controlled and directed.

 This is done with a sump box. One side is water coming from the tank, going to the skimmer. The other side is water coming from the skimmer through the prefilter, going to the main pump and back into the tank. Gravity drains water from the tank, into one side of the sump. The skimmer pump (on this “dirty” side) pumps this water into the skimmer. The water then drains by gravity into the prefilter (“clean”) side of the sump box, collects there, and gets pumped back into the tank by the main pump.

Simplified Reefkeeping

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Keeping records or maintenance and tasks on the reef aquarium,


It is a good idea to keep a notebook in which you record what you did and when you did it. Do not rely on your memory! Once some time has passed, your memory can fail as to when the reef was set up, when the rock was added, how long the tank took to cycle, when the inverts were added, how many of them there were, when the fish were added, how many of them went in, what kinds they were, what the results of your water tests have been, and so on.
Unless you are an analytical type, keeping a notebook and writing down all the things you initially do to the reef will seem like a waste of time. However, as time goes on (as it has a way of doing), you will begin to see the importance and benefits of keeping the notebook. If you do this from the start, there will be a minimum of guesswork regarding water changes, water quality, how long the reef has been set up, and the monetary value of the reef.

Here is a list of maintenance procedures,
Daily:
  1. Check general appearance of reef.
  2. Adjust protein skimmer.
  3. Adjust water level (compensating for evaporation).
  4. Feed livestock.
As needed:
  1. Remove unwanted algae (on glass and overflow pipes).
  2. Clean protein skimmer; change airstones; adjust Venturi valve.
Weekly:
  1. Change prefilter pads.
Biweekly (alternately):
  1. Change water.
  2. Add trace elements.
Monthly:
  1. Test water.
  2. Clean the tank cover.
  3. Wipe the light bulbs.
Every 3 months:
  1. Clean the cooling fan(s).
  2. Inspect and clean the water pumps.
Every 6 months:
  1. Take down and completely clean the sump.
  2. Take down and service the pump.
  3. Replace light bulbs.
Once a year:
  1. Completely take down, clean, and rebuild the reef.


Simplified Reefkeeping

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

What is Live Sand?

It is sand that (1) was taken from a coral reef, and (2) has many micro- and macro-organisms living in it. These organisms are present naturally. They help balance the reef tank by providing a natural food source for the inhabitants of the enclosed reef, and by providing and encouraging bacterial water purification (nitrification and denitrification).

Do I need all live sand?
No. You may use all live sand (and if money is no problem, that is fine), but live sand is expensive. It is not as costly as live rock, but it can still add up. I have used a half-and-half mixture: one-half actual live sand and the other half a material called “aragonite,” by CaribSea. This material is designed specifically for reef tanks and live sand filters. It has all the desirable qualities without the hefty price (aragonite costs about $1 a pound). When you use this 50/50 mixture, the live sand will colonize the aragonite material, so that eventually the mixture will become all live sand.
One factor to consider: the amount of die-off on live sand is unpredictable. If you use all live sand, it will take some time to cycle. It is a biologically dense material containing millions of bacteria and other organisms, and it is rich in both living and dead life forms. As stated in the section on power outages, oxygen is needed to keep most organisms alive. Shipping and handling of this sand material can take its toll on the organisms living in it.
Another thought: when purchasing the sand, you can’t really tell its quality by looking at it, as you can with live rock.

Can I use any sand for the job?
No. You should use only live sand or aragonite material. Regular beach sand, play sand, or home improvement type sand will most likely have silicate in it, which will be sure to cause problems with algae, which will be next to impossible to remove. Ordinary sand may also have “who knows what” in it, so don’t use it. Use only material recommended for reef tanks.
How much sand will I need? For a recommended thickness of approximately 1-3/4 to 2 inches, you will use 1.45 pounds of sand per gallon. For a 55-gallon tank, this is 80 pounds. It may interest you to know that this works out to the same per-gallon amount as is recommended for live rock. It seems that 1.45 or 1.5 pounds of live rock or sand per gallon is the maximum amount to put in the tank.

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Basic Live Rock setup




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Reef Tank Components Setup




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The Most Common Mistakes By Beginner Reef Enthusiast

The first mistake many people make is to start out with the wrong size tank. They base their decision on the assumption that if they start small they can cut costs. To a certain extent this is true. If you really want a small tank, that is fine. However, I do not recommend starting with a small tank as an experiment to see how it goes before getting what you really want. A small tank requires all the same apparatus as a large tank. The setup will be the same but smaller. It will cost a little less, but when you change to the larger size you really want, the components of the smaller system will be of little use. Therefore I suggest giving careful thought from the beginning to the size of your tank, as this decision will dictate all the other decisions you will have to make.
The second mistake: trying to cut corners without actually knowing what is needed The second mistake is to try to cut corners with the components needed for a reef. Many times the novice will decide, “I’ll do without this,” or “I don’t need that.” For those of you who do not have the experience needed to actually know what and what not to use on the reef: please do not cast aside the recommendations of experienced reef keepers. You will find that if it is really not needed it will not be on the following list.

The best way to cycle a reef tank.

CYCLE THE TANK WITH LIVE ROCK ONLY
Step 1. Purchase all (or if your budget is low at the time, get at least 1/2) of the live rock you will use, and proceed to step 2. When ready, get the second 1/2 of the rock.
Step 2. When all the live rock is in the tank, test for ammonia and nitrite. You need to get a zero reading, which could take 2 to 6 weeks, depending on the amount of die-off on the rock. Do not proceed to step 3 until steps 1 and 2 are complete.
Step 3. Begin to add inverts (clams, shrimp, starfish, crabs, snails). Add a few at a time, checking ammonia and nitrite. After all inverts are added, and the test results for ammonia and nitrite are zero, proceed to add your corals, a few at a time. Continue to test for ammonia and nitrite until all your corals are added. When the readings are at zero (this will usually take about 2 weeks, possibly longer), proceed to add the fish in the same manner as above, until all the fish have been added.
Cycling the tank with live rock is the simplest, most trouble-free way to start a reef tank.
Step 4. When the test results read zero, and you begin to test and record nitrate, your tank is completely cycled. When you cycle this way, the live rock does most of the conditioning. This is the way to start your system. It is definitely the safest procedure, because it is hard to know how much die-off the live rock has on it. This way you won’t endanger the valuable, delicate specimens you will add later. Remember, only bad things happen fast. You will need to exercise patience, resisting the impulse to do things in reverse. Remember: live rock first, inverts second, corals third, and fish last. You are now up and running. This will take about 2 to 6 weeks, possibly longer.
Once all the rock is in the tank, the cycling of the water will begin. In approximately three days, there should be a measurable amount of ammonia. Test and record the ammonia at this time. Continue to test and record it at three to four-day intervals. The reading will rise and rise, until one day it will drop off and be zero. At that time, begin to test for nitrite.
The nitrite cycle is very similar to the ammonia cycle, so use the same procedure as described for ammonia. Do not become alarmed with the test results! This is the cycling process, and the tank will balance out! As long as you do not have any fish, inverts or coral in the tank, you have nothing to worry about. Be patient, let nature take its course, and the tank will cycle.
When the nitrite test reads zero, you should begin to test for nitrate. You will get only very faint nitrate readings, because the tank is now balanced and has virtually no bio-load (waste products from fish, invertebrates, etc.).
When the bacteria “catch up” (multiply to process the waste in the tank), you will get zero readings of ammonia and nitrite The tank has now had its first and largest cycle. When you add more livestock, this will increase the waste load, and the bacteria will have to multiply and catch up with the increased load. You will get mini-cycles of ammonia and nitrite when you add livestock. These small cycles will be insignificant as long as you don’t add too many creatures at once. Begin by adding inverts, two to three at a time, until they are all in. Do the same with the corals (possibly slower because of the cost). Test for ammonia and nitrite a few days after each addition. If the test results are zero, proceed to add creatures as described until all inverts and corals are added. Give them a week or so to acclimate. Test for ammonia and nitrite. When they register zero, and the inverts and corals appear to be well adjusted, you are ready to add fish in the same manner as described.

How much Live Rock is required in a reef tank, what is recommemded?

It is very important to have the correct amount of live rock. Some people have gotten carried away with the idea that if some is good, more must be better. This is not true! As with all concepts of reef keeping, balance is very important here. If you don’t have enough live rock, natural internal filtration will be ineffective, because the bacterial colony on the rock will be inadequate to perform the task. Or, if you have too much live rock, you will have dead spots on it. These are areas of live rock that are covered with other rock, blocking some surfaces from light and water circulation. These dead spots are likely to trap waste, sediment, uneaten food, and many other products you would otherwise remove regularly. When waste products accumulate in these areas, they will be a sure food source for micro-algae, which will thrive, causing diminished water quality.

This is referred to as “stacking” the rock, and it should be avoided at all costs.
The correct amount of live rock to have in a reef tank is between a minimum of 1 pound per gallon and a maximum of 1.75 pounds per gallon. Somewhere in the middle, like 1.35 pounds per gallon, would be ideal. Do not exceed 1.75, unless you want to turn some quality live rock into base rock, which would take at least a year to recover and resemble what it was before other rock was stacked on top of it.
I have met many people who have jammed as much live rock into their tanks as would physically fit, in an effort to create a natural system. The only result they got was a natural disaster. Two-thirds of the rock died. The water had so much nutrient in it that it could not be reused. They had to start all over again, rinsing all the rock, buying another tank to use the excess rock, or trying to sell the rock back to the store (as base rock). They learned that when it comes to amounts of live rock, more is definitely not better. Again, do not exceed 1.75 pounds per gallon.
Amounts and quality of live rock for a 55-gallon setup: (55 gallons x 1.5 = 82.5 lbs.)
  • 12 lbs. base rock for bottom, fist size
  • 40 lbs. premium quality for back and sides, large flat
  • 20 lbs. encrusted octocoral, large long, for high points
  • 11 lbs.  of ricordia mushroom rock for accents
  •  
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